Pocket Square Guide for Men

A pocket square is an essential suit accessory for any man trying to make a lasting impression. Paired with a tie, it provides a pop of color that accentuates your entire outfit. I recommend wearing a pocket square with any suit jacket or blazer, formal or casual. It’s a must-have accessory in your wardrobe.

What is a Pocket Square?

A pocket square is a square or rectangular piece of cloth that is used to complement a tie, bowtie, or dress shirt. It is folded and placed in the breast pocket of your suit jacket or tuxedo. A pocket square is a fashion accessory that is used to enhance the overall look of a suit.

Pocket squares are sometimes called pocket handkerchiefs or suit handkerchiefs. I recommend sticking with the term pocket square since a handkerchief is associated with a piece of cloth used to blow your nose. You definitely should not use your pocket square for this purpose.

If you’re interested, here is The History of The Pocket Square.

How to Wear a Pocket Square

Pocket squares come in various colors, materials, and sizes. For proper fitting, a square that is between 40 cm and 45 cm is recommended.

First, you must fold the pocket square. There are a number of different folds, just like there are a number of different tie knots. The video below from ties.com does an excellent job of explaining ways to fold a pocket square.

How to Fold a Pocket Square

Pocket Square Folds

Presidential, The Classic, The Puff, Reverse Puff, Single Peak, Two Peaks, Three Peaks, Four Peaks, Winged Peak, Angled Peaks, The Rose, The Stairs

Matching Your Tie and Pocket Square

In most cases, you should avoid matching the color of your tie to the color of your pocket square. It’s better to use a color that contrasts or complements your tie or bowtie.

Use color theory, just as you would to match your shirt and tie.

Use caution wearing pocket squares with elaborate designs. These work well on some occasions, but the color design still needs to complement your tie. When in doubt, wear a white pocket square. White pocket squares match every type of suit combination.

The combination above uses a blue pocket square with a dark blue bowtie. Both have a similar pattern, but the lighter shade of blue in the pocket square helps differentiate the two accessories.

The combination above uses a pink and blue pocket square with a pink bowtie. The blue accent on the pocket square adds contrast to the outfit.

The suit above blends a blue tie with a red pocket square. In color theory, this uses two out of three colors in a triad. Red, green, and blue are equidistant from each other on the color scale, so combining any of these three colors results in a harmonious blend.

The suit combination above blends two shades of gold. The light gold pocket square complements the dark, bland, gold bowtie. Notice how the dotted pattern also contrasts with the tie to make it pop. This blend accentuates the pocket square in relation to the rest of the outfit.

Pocket Square Rules

• Don’t match the color of your tie and pocket square exactly
• Use caution wearing extravagant patterns
• Choose a color that complements or contrasts with your tie or bowtie
• Choose a secondary color from your tie or shirt and use it as the primary color of your pocket square
• Match the fabric of your pocket square to the fabric of your jacket. Cotton or linen pocket squares should be used with cotton and linen suits. Silk pocket squares should be used with refined wool suits.
• Use simple folds for formal occasions
• White pocket squares work with every jacket and tie combination

Pocket Square Materials

Silk Pocket Squares

Silk is one of the most popular fabrics used for pocket squares. Its smooth texture adds vibrance to colors, and the quality of fabric provides a perfect canvass for intricate designs. Since it’s a fine fabric, silk allows you to fold your pocket square in a number of different ways. It’s essential to use a silk pocket square that is at least 40 cm (16 inches) on each side; this prevents the fabric from slipping down into your pocket.

Silk pocket squares are fancier than cotton or linen pocket squares, so they are used more during formal occasions.

Texas State Navy Pocket Square

Sugar Skull Pocket Square

Silk Blend Pocket Squares

Silk-blend pocket squares use a combination of silk and other material such as wool. A popular blend is 70% wool and 30% silk.

Silk blends aren’t as vibrant as 100% silk squares, but they are still a great choice. One benefit is the wrinkle-resistance of wool. It’s easy to use a number of different folds while keeping the material in place.

Silk-blend pocket squares pair well with silk ties and all types of suit fabrics. They can be used with casual or formal outfits.

Medallion & Floral Reversible Pocket Square

Paisley & Mini Check Reversible Pocket Square

Cotton Pocket Squares

A common material used in clothing, cotton is an affordable option that lacks the extravagance of silk or wool/silk. Cotton pocket squares are still an acceptable choice for cotton jackets and casual occasions, however.

Tropical Pocket Square

Sushi Pocket Square

Linen Pocket Squares

A natural, light material, linen can be used for casual or formal occasions. Linen pocket squares have a more subdued look than silk, so they are a great option if you’re trying to contrast with a shiny suit or tie.

The main downside of linen is that it wrinkles, so be prepared to iron your pocket square.

White Linen Pocket Square

Gray Linen Pocket Square

Summary

• A pocket square is a square or rectangular piece of cloth that is used as an accessory in combination with a tie, bowtie, or dress shirt.
• Avoid matching the color of your pocket square to the color of your tie or bowtie exactly. If you’re using the same base color, choose a shade that is slightly darker or lighter.
• Choose a complementary or contrasting color to your tie or bowtie.
• Match the fabric of your pocket square to the fabric of your jacket.
• White pocket squares pair with almost every type of outfit.
• Pocket squares are made from several materials.
  • Silk
  • Wool/Silk blend
  • Linen
  • Cotton
• Pocket square folds: Presidential, The Classic, The Puff, Reverse Puff, Single Peak, Two Peaks, Three Peaks, Four Peaks, Winged Peak, Angled Peaks, The Rose, The Stairs

Adding a pocket square to your jacket will make a noticeable impact on your overall look. Remember to also accessorize with cufflinks, a tie bar, and men’s watch. If you need additional help with matching, read 5 Rules of Matching Your Watch to Your Outfit.

About The Author

As Founder of Handbook of Man, Tommy Murata helps men of all ages and backgrounds reach their full potential. A self-proclaimed renaissance man, he enjoys golfing, skiing, DIY projects, and learning new skills. When he’s not playing outdoors, Tommy enjoys learning web design and playing music.