The Ultimate Men’s Watch Guide

mens watch guide

The invention of timekeeping was one of humanity’s greatest achievements. Eventually, clocks became wearable accessories known as watches. These timepieces have evolved over centuries, to the point where they now function as a mini-computer on our wrist.

Today, traditional watches serve as a fashion accessory instead of a functional tool. Anyone can look at the time on their phone, but the stylish look of a beautifully crafted watch on their wrist can’t be replaced. I’m going to teach you about different types of men’s watches, and show you some of the best watches for men on the market today.

Watches are classified by their type of movement. This includes the source of power and mechanism that causes the hands to move. Watches have three main types of movement.

Battery-Operated Quartz: A battery is used to send electricity to a quartz crystal. The crystal then oscillates at an exact frequency of 32,768 times per second. A circuit counts the number of vibrations and generates an electric pulse. Since nature defines the behavior of the quartz crystal, this method is extremely accurate.

Mechanical (Manual Winding): These are the old school version of clocks and watches. Today, they’re primarily high-end watches acquired as a status symbol. They require the owner to manually wind a mechanism that sets off a chain of gears. This is similar to the method pendulum clocks use.

Automatic (Self-Winding): The mechanics of an automatic watch are similar to a manual winding watch, but the power source is different. Automatic watches don’t require the owner to physically wind a mechanism to start the watch. The watch is powered by the natural movement of the person wearing it. You’ve likely heard of watches that use solar power or kinetic energy. These are both types of automatic watches.

Three Types of Watches Based on Movement

Quartz

Dean Watch

Fossil

Dean Watch

Mechanical

Vintage Silver Dial Men's Luxury Watch

Bella Ross

Vintage Silver Dial Men’s Luxury Watch

Automatic

Big Crown ProPilot Date Grey Dial

Oris

Big Crown ProPilot Date Grey Dial

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Types of Bands

Leather Watch Bands

Leather bands are typically worn with formal attire. They have a sleek design that pairs perfectly with dress shirts, suits, and formal accessories. Leather bands primarily come in shades of brown and black. Remember the rules of matching your watch to your outfit. You need to wear a band that matches the color of your belt and shoes. During formal occasions, this means wearing a black watch with a black belt and shoes.

Types of Leather: Suede, Cowhide, Lizard, Calfskin, Alligator, Snake, Full Grain, Top Grain

Luxury

Heritage Tachymeter Chronograph

Longines

Heritage Tachymeter Chronograph Heritage Military Green Dial Watch

Movado

Heritage Military Green Dial Watch The Saint-Imier Automatic Men's Watch

Longines

The Saint-Imier Automatic Men’s Watch

Affordable

The Sentry Leather Watch

Nixon

The Sentry Leather Watch Fairfield Chronograph Leather Watch

Timex

Fairfield Chronograph Leather Watch Machine Chronograph Leather Watch

Fossil

Machine Chronograph Leather Watch

Metal Watch Bands

Everyone loves a flashy metal watch band. They’re less formal than leather, but still look fancy with the right design. Metal watches appear large and heavy compared to other types, so they’re great for men with large wrists. Wear metal bands with casual or work attire. Flashy bands with diamonds look cool sometimes, but it’s generally better to stick with a subtle design and texture. Make sure the color of your watch band matches the color of your men’s accessories.

Types of Metal: Stainless Steel, Platinum, Gold, Silver, Titanium, Aluminum

Luxury

Seamaster Aqua Terra Silver Dial

Omega

Seamaster Aqua Terra Silver Dial TimeWalker Chronograph 43mm Men's Watch

MontBlanc

TimeWalker Chronograph 43mm Men’s Watch Cosmograph Daytona Oystersteel Men's Watch

Rolex

Cosmograph Daytona Oystersteel Men’s Watch

Affordable

The Time Teller Watch

Nixon

The Time Teller Watch Crystal Watch

Guess

Crystal Watch Rasp 3 Watch

Diesel

Rasp 3 Watch

Functional Material Watch Bands

Functional material includes watch bands made from anything besides leather or metal. They’re generally used on sporty or casual watches. Rubber bands are great for water-proof watches.

Types of Material: Rubber, Nylon, Tweed, Mesh, Plastic

Luxury

Aquis Date Men's Divers Watch

Oris

Aquis Date Men’s Divers Watch Bentley Supersports Titanium Men's Watch

Breitling

Bentley Supersports Titanium Men’s Watch Avenger Blackbird 44 Men's Watch

Breitling

Avenger Blackbird 44 Men’s Watch

Affordable

GA110RG-1A Watch

G-Shock

GA110RG-1A Watch Chain Watch

Guess

Chain Watch Tonal Watch

Diesel

Tonal Watch

Additional Types of Men’s Watches

Pilot Watches

Also known as: Aviation watches, Flyer watches

Designed in the early 1900s, pilot watches have become a favorite of aviators. Originally, these watches were designed to be worn over the pilot’s jacket. The large crown also allowed the pilot to use the watch with gloves.

Today, the functionality of pilot watches isn’t necessary, but the novelty of the watch itself still holds value. It’s not only popular among pilots, but civilians and watch enthusiasts as well.

Pilot Watch Features

  • Large face that is over 50mm in diameter
  • High-contrast hands, numbers, and indexes
  • Multiple time zones to track local time and destination time
  • Bezel markings to help with fuel burn, wind correction angle, and other important calculations
Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter with Feet Scale

Oris

Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter with Feet Scale

Military Watches

The origin of the military watch varies from country to country, but most started appearing in the late nineteenth century to the early twentieth century. There isn’t a standard way to classify military watches, but most share common characteristics such as large numbers, durability, and luminosity.

Also known as: Field watches

Military Watch Features 

  • Durability. If you’re out on a mission, it’s vital that your watch can sustain the impact of rocks, equipment, and falls.
  • Water-resistance. Sometimes there’s no hiding from the elements. If it you’re wading through water or caught in the middle of a rain storm, your watch needs to withstand the effects of water.
  • Large face, numbers, and dials. It needs to be as easy as possible to tell time quickly.
  • Luminosity. Telling time at night is important when you’re out in the dark. Many military watches have luminous hands that glow in the dark.
Heritage Ranger

Tudor

Heritage Ranger

Diver’s Watches

Also known as: Dive watches, Diving watches

A diver’s watch or dive watch, is designed to have water resistance from 200-300 meters. This is obviously useful for swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, or any activity in water. Unlike pilot watches and military watches, there are set standards that must be met to classify a watch as a diver’s watch. The governing body is the International Organization for Standardization. ISO 6425 states that a diver’s watch is compliant if it meets the following standards:

  • Have a minimum water-resistance of 100 meters (330 feet)
  • Be anti-magnetic
  • Be shock-resistant
  • Be resistant to salt water
  • Be equipped with a reliable measuring system for dive time
  • Be visible at a distance of 25 centimeters in the dark
  • Be reliable and work correctly underwater
Divers Sixty-Five Automatic Men's Watch

Oris

Divers Sixty-Five Automatic Men’s Watch

Summary

The types of men’s watches described in this article don’t cover everything that’s available, but they are the most popular. There are other classifications of watches that fit into multiple categories. These include chronograph watches, dress watches, casual watches, fashion watches, smart watches, racing watches, luxury watches, kinetic watches, spring drive watches, solar powered watches, lithium-ion watches, and more.

Remember, at a high-level, there are three types of watches based on movement:

  • Battery-operated quartz watches
  • Mechanical watches
  • Automatic watches

Types of watch bands include:

  • Leather
  • Metal
  • Functional material

If you’re looking for discounted luxury watches, I highly encourage you to check out Authentic Watches.

For more affordable men’s watches, check out the awesome selection at Buckle.

About The Author

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As Founder of Handbook of Man, Tommy Murata helps men of all ages and backgrounds reach their full potential. A self-proclaimed renaissance man, he enjoys golfing, skiing, DIY projects, and learning new skills. When he’s not playing outdoors, Tommy enjoys learning web design and playing music.

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